The period of the Resort 2020 collections shows has come to an end, and what remains is a sweet and sugary taste with a bitter aftertaste. We witnessed the first fashion show, as well as the first triumph, of Virginie Viard as Chanel‘s creative director, and among lavender-coloured bows, bon-bon handbags in shades of apricot and baby pink, and maxi-denim quilted bags, the thought can only go to Karl Lagerfeld and how much we will miss his final greeting at the end of each show.
The audience’s love is confirmed for Nicolas Ghesquière and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who brought Louis Vuitton and Valentino into the future of fashion with high-tech accessories, dresses that recall New York architecture and profusion of feathers, glitter and bold details.
In Marrakech, Maria Grazia Chiuri built for Dior a bridge between yesterday and today, between French and Moroccan culture. The show she designed as a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent, once the creative director of the maison, is rich in color, in fabrics and embroideries, in history and culture, and is an invitation to discover new, exotic, different and wonderful realities, leaving our borders to open up to a universe of creativity.
Prada is typically ‘Milanese’: there is the wardrobe of those who pretend to have a simple and spontaneous clothing, but which in reality has an immense research behind it. There are Nineties inspiration, patchwork details and crochet scarves, calico printed jackets and a girlish allure that shines through in pastel colors.
Finally, Alberta Ferretti and Alessandro Michele offer two wonderful versions of female beauty: in the first case it is the easy chic elegance of the posh woman, the one who goes on holiday in Monaco and who on the Croisette wears a total suede look with impeccable sobriety, in the second, it is instead the cultivé woman, the one who spends her holidays in Rome wandering around the Capitoline museums with a Bamboo bag under her arm and a bag full of books bought in a flea market under the other.
The result of the Resort season? The rediscovery of femininity in the elements that have always been associated with it, the traditional ones, such as bows and flowers, velvets and feathers, bright details, pastel colors, and the obsessive care of the accessory. There is no street style, no sneakers: back on heels, a string of pearls and one of makeup, and what results is today’s woman: strong, determined, who knows what she wants, who wants so many things, including Chanel’s oversize beige tweed backpack.
Chanel
Louis Vuitton
Valentino
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Christian Dior
Prada
Alberta Ferretti
Gucci