The rumour had been around for a few months, but confirmation has finally arrived! In a few days, Matthew Williams will be the new artistic director of the French fashion house Givenchy. Unexpected and unsettling is the streetwear turn that once again the Maison has decided to take, replacing Clare Waight Keller, at the reins of the brand since 2017, with the unconventional Williams. But who is him?
For those unfamiliar with it, Matthew Williams is the founder of the 1017 Alyx 9SM brand. But let’s get to know him better! Born in Illinois but raised in California, the designer is now a point of reference in the streetwear world. He first made himself known to work alongside international artists until becoming the first artistic director of Lady Gaga from 2008 to 2010. His training moves away from the conventional ones, he grew up breathing and experiencing streetwear combining it with a passion for fashion and tailoring unique in this universe. The friendships gained over the years in California brought him closer to big names in the fashion scene, starting from the photographer Nick Knight up to Kanye West, who will crown him artistic director of his Studio Donda. Last but not least the collaborations with Virgil Abloh, Heron Preston and Justin Saunders. Matthew Williams decides to create his own brand in 2015, first named Alyx in honour of his daughter and then expanded to 1017 Alyx9SM (1017 in reference to his date of birth and 9SM as a tribute to the name of the New York studio where everything began). Alyx’s debut was an unexpected success, also thanks to the collaboration of Luca Benini, founder of Slam Jam who will lead him to become a finalist of the coveted Prix LVMH in 2016, starting to market his products at fashion giants such as Dover Street Market and Opening Ceremony.
Williams’ creations are relatively new for Givenchy, the style is eclectic, minimalist and street-minded without neglecting any qualitative details. In an interview with Business Of Fashion, the designer underlined how his creations want to become the emblem of modern craftsmanship by acting as a bridge for kids who wear tees and sneakers but with his brand they can discover tailoring and excellent materials. Williams’ passion for craftsmanship led him to move to Italy to convert his production into luxury streetwear, working cheek to cheek with Luca Benini.
In reality, the change of course towards luxury streetwear is not new for Givenchy. Before the (can we say it?) unsuccessful artistic direction of Clare Waight Keller, who became famous for the Givenchy wedding dress made for Meghan Markle, the brand had already known the streetwear world. With who? As you know with Riccardo Tisci, who is the creative director of the Maison from 2005 to 2017, making the brand successful and with a unique reputation. Also, in this case, it was an Italian who brought the revolution to Givenchy and, despite the origins of Williams from overseas, the importance he gives to the Italian manufacture seems to have brought a bit of Italy back to the heart of the Maison. The news about Matthew Williams and family headquarters is not yet official: will he move to Paris or will he take over the reins of the French fashion house from Italy? But above all, will luxury streetwear still be the key to Givenchy’s success? We’ll see!