The announcement of a fashion house led by Bad Girl Riri arrived like a bolt from the blue in the industry. The new brand of the LVMH group has been hovering in the air for weeks, creating a sort of radioactive tension that pushed us to fantasize and to ask ourselves, up to the last, what Rihanna would have invented. The answer came yesterday with the preview of the Parisian pop-up store that will be opening to the public on May 24th.
To accompany it all, the video campaign of the first collection. Those who expected a mixed couture and street style brand were satisfied: the urban soul is the master, built on the skeleton of the Nineties rap fashion with denim jackets and oversize shirts.
Those who hoped for a touch of extravaganza in the wake of the Notes on Camp were disappointed: a few bright colors, condensed in a hint of candy pink and then immersed in a neutral mash, and no over-the-top detail that captures the attention.
Certainly, the brand constitutes a unicum in the history of LVMH, a group that stands out for its elitist aesthetics and a design that is always and in any case conceptual, and which had not yet been fully launched in the world of citywear.
But there is to say that Rihanna faces competitors, who are many, perhaps too many: inside Fenty we see Virgil Abloh with the first Off-White collections, a bit of Balenciaga in the proportions played on contrasts between long and short, large and stretch, with some hints of Vetements. In short, Rihanna referred to a fashion idea shared by many designers: she focused on the winning horse of fit rather than playing on originality.
It is still too early to understand what twist Fenty clothes will take, and the wait continues until May 29th, the e-commerce opening date in which the range price of the line will also be revealed. The fact remains that the brand is very competitive, not only in terms of sales (also driven here by another winning horse: Rihanna’s signature) but for now, we can limit ourselves to a Miranda Priestly mood: street style, for Rihanna’s brand? Ground-breaking.