TBS TASTE: a slow food lunch at DesinoLento

Excellent ingredients, lighter and healthier reinventions of traditional cuisines, and a carefully-designed, classy decor that can be altered depending on the theme and situation: this week’s TBS Taste is all about DesinoLento (“desinare” is a somewhat obsolete Italian term meaning “to have lunch”, and “lento” means “slow”). DesinoLento is chef Domenico Della Salandra‘s latest project and where he is free to cook away his apparently simple and familiar dishes, which in reality need fine skills to create and a never-ending search for the right ingredient among the very best available on the market.

And that’s why the menu changes daily, based on what was freshest at the market but also depending on the weather and the day’s inspiration, even though some dishes come back again and again, such as the baccalà mantecato, the chef’s forte, which is what we got: we were left speechless and couldn’t wait for the following courses! What else did we have? Saffron risotto and spaghetti with pesto and mussels for Francesca and Giulia respectively (both were great, but the risotto was heavenly!) and octopus with pureed potatoes for Vince, who just can’t resist octopus and who, as our expert, stated it was the best he’s ever had. To conclude, a triple dessert: mango pannacotta, ricotta with figs, and apple fritters. Mouth-watering!

Nothing was rushed – an impressive contrast compared to the frantic pace of lunch breaks in Milan. Together with the its prices, which are higher than other restaurants in the neighbourhood, this is a clear indication of the status of DesinoLento, a special place to treat yourself to, especially in comparison to most other lunch spots. Dinner, the meal in which DesinoLento will find its best realization, will be served starting in October.

For the time being, the restaurant is only open at lunch time, while the cafe is open from 9 am to 10 pm: it welcomes customers for a lovely breakfast among succulents (which you can buy) as well as for happy hours and events: this is also a venue for pop-up exhibitions of contemporary art, who can exhibit their work in multiple rooms.