A famous jazz song from the 1950s said ‘Bewitched, Bothered & Bewildered’. These are three key words that Maria Grazia Chiuri seemed to have well in mind while making the Christian Dior Haute Couture FW 2020 collection, in a surprising total-black.
The feminist inspiration this time is twofold and is divided between classical antiquity and the historical myth of witchcraft.
It starts first of all from the setting: the location chosen for the show is in fact the historic building in 30 Rue Montaigne where Monsieur Dior opened his first boutique, and that for the occasion turned into a sort of Gothic forest with twisted trunks, games of light and shadows, and an up-and-down maze of stairs, which then leads to a garden in full bloom.
Completing the suggestion are the illustrations by the feminist artist Penny Slinger, who uses an almost surrealist style to represent the natural elements: faces framed by butterflies to symbolize the air, a face covered with hands whose fingers have become tongues of fire. In this mystical reality models are starting to parade, dressed completely in black.
The idea is that of a coven of witches who come together to perform rituals: there are clear references to alchemy such as the presence of dark rooster feathers with green reflections, hoods resting on the nape and black veils that create a play of ‘ see I do not see’ on the face. There are fringes, typical of shaman’s clothing, necklaces with large gold pendants like those of Celtic priestesses, and flat sandals that replace heels: in a wood you have to walk in comfort.
The fabrics are light and ethereal: embroidered taffeta, thin and finely worked lace, faceted satin, which are combined with sequin details and inserts of feathers, crystals and semi-precious stones. The silhouettes perfectly respect the aesthetics of Christian Dior.
The necklines are geometric and highlight sensual elements such as the shoulders, the arch of the neck; the waists are tight, often highlighted by belts, and then explode into wide and voluminous skirts. However, the dominant feature is black, a color that has always been associated with mystery and magic.
Another element that inspired the creative director is classical antiquity, which in particular refers to caryatids. An architectural element that holds up, is a support column without which a structure would collapse on itself. The reference to the role of women in society is strong and clear: it is the theory of the black swan, according to which great events of history go unnoticed, just as femininity has been for many centuries.
To top it all off, a beauty look designed by Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director of Dior Make-up, who has chosen to enhance the eyes. Two lines of black eyeshadow, in the upper part and in the inner rim of the eye, frame it giving it charm and depth. No mascara: so, the result is more delicate. For the complexion, a veil of foundation, on which a highlighter is applied that makes the skin shine with natural light. Even the lips are naked, just as the focus is all on the intensity of the look.
That of Dior is a powerful and mysterious feminine beauty, full of timeless charm. It is the beauty of the black swan: rare, exceptional and almost magical.