Milano Fashion Week Day 1 Recap

It feels like Milan had suddenly turned the spotlight back on: the streets are starting to populate again with black cars that recite “Camera della Moda“, the shop windows are decorated for a party and in the air, there is an energy that for a long time was been put on standby: Milan Fashion Week is back!

A magical moment, a ritual that was silenced right in the middle of its course by the pandemic last February 2020, and which today returns to make the city of Milan vibrate like never before. Fashion, in its prêt-à-porter capital, returns to be the most charming hostess and opens its doors to international guests of the fashion system. The brands organize their calendar scrupulously, opting again for face-to-face fashion shows and deleting that “digital” wording that last year had somewhat extinguished the classic fashion week fervor. The appointments are many and the collections of this SS 22 become ambassadors of a new attitude, which does not completely abandon leisure-wear but makes it a source of inspiration for a rediscovered elegance. The desire for formality, to slip into a wardrobe and mix textures, volumes, shapes, and heights is back. The proposals of the brands interpret the public’s desire to “stay out”, to experience the city and no longer the home, but with a more relaxed mood. The color palettes are earthy, there are not too bright accents for next summer; there are the nudes, the colors of the desert, the greens, the blues, and the pastels to be the protagonists, together with a great unprecedented return for the hottest season: black.

Recap Shows 22 September

FENDI 

Mr. Kim Jones for Fendi revisits the joyful irreverence that has characterized the Maison since the beginning. He winks at the lines and style of the 90s disco by combining very short rectangle sheath dresses with over-the-knee boots. Fendi’s femininity for summer 2022 is different, it is powerful, it captures the beauty of the past and reincarnates it in a future with a thousand perspectives. The drawings of the illustrator Antonio Lopez dig into the archives of the Roman brand and become the starting point for prints that seem to be an ode to Studio 54 and to his loyal artists Andy Warhol, Steven Meisel, David Hockney. The designs become the favorite pattern of pastel-colored caftans, silk shirts, inlaid leathers, lace, and shimmering jacquards. Together with them, proud one-color suits with cropped blazers and waistcoats with unusual volumes and wide-leg trousers with a very high waist parade. The Maison’s iconic bags adorn the looks by rediscovering themselves in rainbow-hued Baguette, Peekaboo transformed into graphic works of art and a bold FENDI First becomes the symbol of rebirth.

ALBERTA FERRETTI 

Light and material, the SS 22 collection by Alberta Ferretti takes up the unmistakable signs of a Maison that has always told and celebrated women. Women who are made of opposites, like the collection dedicated to them for next season. The lengths are extreme, now very short and almost cheeky, now extra-long and floating. The volumes are soft, airy or sculpt the figure without hiding it. The garments are stratified in coordinated suits or are declined in garments with cut-out details that leave a side, back or waist in view. Also for Alberta, the colors are soft and recall nature in all its forms, from the earth to the stones with palettes of ruby, turquoise, emerald and amethyst. Black is a great protagonist of crochet tops and dresses, soft silk blouses, kaftans and cargo pants. Sangallo details mix with safari looks celebrating a rediscovered and dear elegance. Masculine jackets blend with fringes that dance and seduce together with knots, weaves, and drapes to characterize tops, dresses and trousers with deep pleats. Small bags and gladiators’ flat sandals complete the looks.

ROBERTO CAVALLI 

Fausto Puglisi reinterprets the codes of the Maison in a personal, new and beautiful key for this SS 22 collection. The Cavalli brand rediscovers itself as a trendsetter with coordinated animalier looks that play with volumes and lengths. Alongside the more classic blacks and earth tones, there are bright palettes such as turquoise, yellow and pink. Oversized blazers mix with tight mini dresses and sporty leggings for new looks suitable for the everyday wardrobe. To make the garments unforgettable, details of studs, sequins and tiny feathers adorn skirts, shoes and mini dresses.

N.21 

Knit is the protagonist of the SS22 collection created by Alessandro Dell’Acqua. A unisex wardrobe that plays with the soft textures of cotton and suede, declining them now in full-length trousers, now in coordinated suits with Western charm. Also for Numero Ventuno the color palette is soft and candid, it plays with transparencies and even the most rigorous and formal suits let the skin glimpse now with bra to act as a top now with vertiginous mini skirts.